how timid
are the first steps
into
chilled water.
each wave
splashing higher
onto the sun
baked
skin.
waiting for that
moment to give
up and just
dive in.
feeling the rough
sand,
the soft roll
of rocks
beneath your
feet. seeing the silver
crests, lapping,
the greens
all changing
and shifting below
the clouds.
finding the right
moment
the right height
of wave
and throwing your
arms forward,
head first
into the cold.
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